Day 5 & 6 Bolzano & Venice
Ötzi the Iceman
Thursday, October 22, 2015
On the way to Venice, we took a quick trip to Bolzano to see Ötzi the Iceman at the S.Tirol Archaeology Museum. Photos were prohibited in the museum, but the links above can provide images of what we saw.
“I was familiar with Ötzi, having read an article somewhere in the not too distant past. Visiting the museum to learn more was one of the things I had been looking forward to. Seeing a mummified individual wasn’t my idea of a good time, but seeing his clothes and supplies and learning about his life certainly was. I wasn’t aware that he was found so close to the Austrian border that there had been some discussion of who should keep him.” -K
One of the things we would come to appreciate on this tour was how much of the minutia was taken care of by Lisa and Alexis. When we needed tickets, Lisa would get what we needed and hand them out to us along with information we would need to make the most of our visit. This was true whether we were going into a museum or traveling by train or boat. Room numbers were given out while we were on the bus, which made check-in a lot faster. While learning the Italian words and phrases was fun, her fluency with the language made it all so much smoother.
We were on our own for lunch and after browsing the market we met in Piazza Walther where we departed for Venice!
Venezia
We have arrived in Venice!
Venice is a city like no other. Founded when Romans were fleeing northern invaders, Venice would go through several episodes of invasions and rulers before becoming the city we see today.
Our first glimpse of Venice would be from the bus as we crossed the long bridge leading into the city. There are no cars in Venice so the bus parked and we walked to the Vaparetto. Besides walking, the low-profiled boats would be our main source of transportation. The boat took us down the Grand Canal to our stop. As we disembarked the sun was low in the sky, boats filled the water and the odd gull kept watch from above. The scene was magical. We stopped briefly so Kerry could grab a picture, but not so long as to be left behind.
Dinner with the group at Bentigodi
Our hotel, the Antigo Trovatore, wasn’t far. The room was small but cozy and at a short walk from St. Mark’s Square, the location was great!
We met for an orientation tour where we learned a little history and how to navigate the narrow streets. Our tour ended at a group dinner at Bentigodi. Our group pretty much filled the tiny Osteria, where Lisa was warmly greeted by the host and we were all made welcome.
“Maryann and I made a point of sitting with different people at each meal so we could get to know the others a bit more. That night we sat with two couples from Michigan, Mark and Nancy and Steve and Nancy, Debra from Austin and Sharon from up and down the East Coast. I found out that Mark and I shared an interest in birding. The seafood meal was excellent. I made a point to stay open with regards to food. So far everything had been wonderful though I wasn’t always quite sure what all of it was. During the meal a couple of musicians came and played for us. It was a wonderful evening”-K.
Rialto Market
Friday, October 23, 2015
The following morning we met our guide Elisabetta Minelli. She was a very knowledgeable and quite entertaining. We toured the city and learned about the different styles of architecture and history. Did you know you can tell the general age of a building by the shape of the windows? We wound our way through the narrow streets taking in sights and sounds. Everyone was on foot or in a boat; there were no bicycles, no cars.
Franco Furlanetto, one of three remaining remèri or fórcola craftsmen.
Our walk took us past the Rialto market which was filled with every kind of seafood imaginable and a seemingly unlimited supply of colorful fruits and vegetables. There were men unloading boats filled with the latest catch. Seagulls flew over the workers, hoping for something to be dropped. Maryann bought some dates and we shared with a few of our new friends.
We stopped by the small shop of Franco Furlanetto. Franco is one of three remaining remèri or fórcola craftsmen. The fórcola or ‘fork’ is the carved wooden piece connected to the gondola and upon which the oar rests. While it looks decorative and many are certainly works of art, it is mechanical in design. Each fórcola is built to fit the gondolier and the gondola. Every curve has a purpose whether to act as a ‘brake’ or allow for speed when a gondola is being used for racing. Elisabetta translated as Franco described the design, gondola racing, and history and showed us examples of both finished fórcole and some in the process of being crafted. Franco and Elisabetta obviously knew each other. We didn’t know what was said but their playful banter was fun to watch.
Children feeding the pigeons in Piazza San Marco
Our tour ended at Piazza San Marco with its stunning Basilica, clock tower and outdoor cafes. There aren’t words to describe some of the places we would see. St. Mark’s is one of those places. They were doing work on the facade but the inside was spectacular. The size and craftsmanship is unbelievable. The mosaics were stunning. Photographs inside were not allowed so we bought a book with photos. There is so much to take in and no way to remember it all.
Master glass artist @ Vecchia Murano
After St. Mark’s there was an optional trip to Vecchia Murano to see a glass blowing demonstration. Located a short walk from Piazza San Marco, the shop was a combination store and small workshop. We were in for a special treat as there was a master glass artisan there that day. Starting with blobs of molten glass, he fashioned a beautiful pitcher and a horse so quickly and made it all look so easy at the same time. The store was filled with every kind of glass item one could imagine. There was row upon row of decorative statues and pieces of art, many sets of drinking and wine glasses in every color imaginable, and a plethora of chandeliers sparkling above us.
It was about lunchtime when we left Vecchio Murano. We were on our own till the optional gondola ride at 6pm so we and fellow traveler, Debra,decided to take a walk over to the Gallerie dell’Accademia. On the way we stopped by Bar Ducale for a panini and a drink. We stood on the street eating our lunch, soaking up the atmosphere. We were in Venice!
Twilight gondola ride on the Grand Canal.
When we arrived at the museum we picked up some headsets and audio tour guides for a few Euros. We saw many works created by artists from the fourteenth through the eighteenth centuries. The building itself was beautiful with quite an interesting ceiling of angelic faces staring down. Afterwards we walked back to the hotel appreciating what we had seen. We had enough time for a cup of tea before the twilight gondola ride.
And we’re off!
Our group filled 5 gondolas. Anyone having a birthday or anniversary was given the ‘love seat’. Since we were having our first anniversary in a few days, we were given the love seat in the first boat. Riding with us were Andy and Kate, Laura and our bus driver, Adrian. Adrian and our gondolier conversed in Italian and Adrian told us that they were discussing what schooling was necessary to become a gondolier. We floated down a narrow canal,listening to an Italian serenade, weaving through other gondolas before emerging in the Grand Canal just as the sun was setting. Our 5 boats were lined up one next to the other as we took in the breathtaking scene before us. After the ride, we spent the rest of the evening with Kate and Andy, talking and laughing over a spritz and a wonderful dinner. It was a perfect night in Venice.
Goodbye Venice
Saturday, October 24, 2015
A newly married couple getting some great wedding photos.
Since we’d finished breakfast with some time to spare, we decided to walk around the block before meeting for the Vaparetto ride back to the bus. Since it was still early, the streets were quiet. We walked to the Grand Canal and watched the vendors setting up their stalls and kiosks. It was high tide, so platforms with wooden walkways were required to keep feet dry as people walked into St. Marks. A young couple was enjoying the quiet of the morning as their beautiful wedding photos were being taken. Kerry shot a video as we were riding down the Grand Canal. Venice was indeed a magical place. We hoped we’d return.