Day 13 & 14 Assisi & Umbria
Assisi
Friday, October 30, 2015
A group of Sisters in Italy, volunteering at a local hospital.
“Between our time in Siena and our arrival in Orvieto, we spent an afternoon in Assisi, home of one of my favorite saints, Francis, founder of the Franciscan order and patron saint of both Italy and the environment. We stopped first on the outskirts of town, at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Its spire was topped by a golden statue of Mary, and inside was the tiny Porziuncola, the little chapel where Francis lived, worked, and established the Franciscan order. Such an odd sight, a little church inside the big, beautiful basilica! I felt honored to pray here, to just sit in the space where Francis spent time. Here, he also consecrated Santa Chiara, St. Clare, the founder of the Poor Clares and his devoted friend. We walked through the display of a large Nativity scene and I learned that Francis originated the custom of Christmas creches. Before we left the basilica, Kerry presented me with a lovely gift: a replica of the golden statue of Mary which topped the basilica.” -M
Historically, each town had their own standard measurements. Located at the base of the tower of Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, these examples of Assisi standards insured consistency in construction. Circa 1300s
We were to meet outside for our buddy check before leaving for the bus. As our traveling companions were drifting out of the building and over to join us, we met a group of smiling nuns from Vietnam who had just arrived to serve as nurses in a local hospital.
A local resident Joins us for Lunch.
Then, we were back on the bus, Adrian with a sharp new haircut, and off to the town of Assisi. As we drove through the arches that welcomed us into the town, we learned that each one was from a different time period.
We met up with Marco, another witty and knowledgeable guide who led us around the town, teaching us bits of interesting history, such as the measures builders were required to use when constructing bricks, roof tiles, etc. Apparently, each town had their own measures! He greeted us with a ‘Buon pomeriggio!’ He informed us that this form of ‘good afternoon’ is going out of use, and he was trying to preserve it.
The Temple of Minerva had survived into present time because a church to Our Lady had been consecrated within its walls. A certainly religious dog came to visit us as we sat on its steps, eating another delicious lunch panini. He was not impressed with the bread we offered and moved on to other folks who might be more generous.
Assisi was alive with color.
In the town, we visited both the basilica of St. Clare, where her crypt and many artifacts are visible; and the amazing basilica of St. Francis, where he is buried. It is filled with glorious works of art from several masters. “I couldn’t help but wonder how Francis, the saint of humility and simplicity, would view the entire building with all its treasures.”-M
Roman amphorae from the archaeological museum situated under Piazza del Comune.
We explored ancient Roman artifacts at the Roman Forum and Archaeological Museum just around the corner from the Temple of Minerva. Situated under Piazza del Comune, many of the artifacts on display were uncovered during the earthquake that struck the area in 1997. There were amphorae, headstones, stone carvings, a casket and a model of the forum. After leaving the main area, visitors were given access to the collection via a glass walkway situated a few feet above the rows of headstones with their ancient inscriptions.
We could have happily continued to explore the beautiful town and the lovely green countryside of Umbria which surround it, but it was soon time to make our way back to the bus and drive on to Orvieto and the wonderful wine resort, Altarocca!
Altarocca
We had a wonderful view of the vineyard from from our patio.
Again watching Adrian’s skill at maneuvering around hairpin turns, we ascended the hills around Orvieto and arrived at Altarocca Wine Resort. What a serene and luxurious place! After being shown our rooms, we regrouped for some history of the place and a wine tasting. (Tough job, but someone has to do it, right?) The Al Molina Gualtieri farm was begun in 2000 and the family is in process of reclaiming the land for wine grapes and restoring the lovely old olive trees. In 2011, their respect for the land led them to farm organically. As of 2015, they were producing enough olive oil to use at the resort and to sell small bottles to guests. The wine however, was already being distributed in the US.
Wine Tasting at Altarocca Wine Resort
At Altarocca, we were treated to abundant and top notch meals, accompanied on the first night by the music of a trio called Bartender. While we enjoyed their music and songs, we feasted on puff pastry stuffed with ricotta and salami with pea sauce, followed by risotto with pumpkin and hazelnuts. Then a roasted fillet of pork with green beans, and a dessert of panna cotta with chocolate sauce. And always, wine and bread!
“Although both meal and music were delightful, my favorite element of the evening was our visit with David (pronounced Dah-vid) Tordi of Bartender, who sat at our table. David speaks fluent English, having lived in the US. (He’s married to a Bostonian.) His wonderful ear allowed him to identify my accent with the few Italian words I knew from my childhood as Napolitano! One of my grandmothers was indeed from very near Naples…. In addition to his musical gifts, resourceful David is a guide for some Rick Steves Tours, and has a tour company that takes travelers to Southern Italy.” -M
We enjoyed the music and company into the evening before heading back to our room or at least attempting to. A few glasses of wine, the resort’s size and the darkness of the countryside made finding one’s room an adventure. Fortunately help was readily available and within no time we were back at our room.
Saturday, October 31, 2015
“I was up early. Not wanting to wake Maryann, I decided to grab my camera and head outside. Before walking the grounds, I spent some time sitting on the patio soaking up the cool morning, listening to bird song and watching the colors come alive as the sun lightened the dark sky.” -K
Orvieto
Getting to know Orvieto begins with an orientation.
“So, a lovely resort, delicious food, good music. What else does Altarocca have? The beautiful Umbrian countryside stretched out below us as we walked through the vinyards where the leaves were turning autumnal reds and golds and the olive trees were bursting with ripe olives under the October sun. Heaven.
In fact, I almost skipped the Saturday visit to Orvieto to lounge and walk in the beauty a bit more. And I would have missed a wonderful experience there, too. Lisa led us on a tour to the city’s Duomo, which has a memorable Gothic facade. But inside, the chapel of San Brizio is the true gem with frescos painted by Fra Angelico and the breathtaking works of Luca Signorelli.”-M
Bags filled with beans at the Saturday market in Orvieto
After our visit to the Duomo we were free to explore. We wandered the city’s streets and alleyways, into charming shops and a market area where we bought Italian walnuts, dried apricots and dates. We bought gifts for our granddaughters, Ella (a book and a necklace) and Lily (a hat, and hand-crocheted booties from a street vendor).
Andy and Sadie enjoying the gelato.
We met Lisa who bought us all gelato, then headed back to the bus for a relaxing afternoon, then a second sumptuous dinner at Altarocca. A note on gelato: Lisa taught us how to pick a good gelato shop. Bypass those that have huge, fluffy mounds of gelato displayed, she warned. They’re full of air! Poorer quality. We took her advice and never had a bad gelato (though that must be an oxymoron!)
The next morning, we said ciao to Altarocca and Orvieto and headed off to our last stop, bella Roma, where we would say goodbye to Adrian and have the final days of our trip of a lifetime (so far!)