Day 11 & 12 Lucca & Siena
Lucca
Wednesday, October 28, 2015
Cyclists and walkers enjoying the trail atop the city wall.
We arrived in Lucca at about 10:30 am. Centuries old Lucca and its unique intact surrounding wall are as charming as they are unobtrusive. Lucca has a rich history which belies its claim to fame in current times as the leading producer of toilet paper in Europe. (Who knew?) As a group we visited a local church and had our orientation before spending a couple of hours on our own.
“Maryann spent the time with Andy and Kate while I opted for spending the free time on one of the many benches that line the path atop the wall of Lucca. I enjoyed watching life unfold around me, coming down only to try the local crepe-like dish Cece or cecena (CHEH-chee or cheh-CHEE-nah). The wall seemed to be a favorite of cyclists, lovers and others looking to get out and enjoy some free time.” -K
Lovely Lucca
The rain started just as it was time to meet up to head back to the bus. Buddy Check! After going through the now all-familiar routine, we soon realized that all were present except one. We waited, hoping our companion would show up but within a few minutes we started to become concerned. Lisa sent everyone except those with local cell phones back to the bus. We traded numbers and each set out in a different direction looking for our missing friend. We were to take only 10 minutes and meet back up while one stayed behind in case she returned. The time came and went and still no sign of her. Some of us went back to the bus while Lisa kept looking. Before too long, we saw their familiar faces headed toward the bus. Our companion had become lost when the rain damaged her map. Thankfully all was well and we were on our way in short order.
Florence American Cemetery & Memorial
Florence American Cemetery and Memorial
The rain was short-lived and before we knew it we were pulling into what appeared to be a cemetery. This trip was not on our daily schedule as it was a surprise.
The Florence American Cemetery & Memorial was created after WWII to honor those Americans who lost their lives in the war in Italy. The 70 acre cemetery contains 4,398 headstones for the soldiers who are buried there. There is a wall with names of those 1409 still missing. A beautiful tribute to those to gave all. “I found myself crying, wondering if we would ever learn to stop killing each other.”-M
Siena
Dinner at Contrada della Selva
We arrived in Siena a little later than expected, but in plenty of time to get checked in to our room at the Hotel Chiusarelli and freshened up before our orientation and a walking tour with local guide, Anna Lisa.
It was dark by the time we set out on our walk around Siena. We stopped by a 500+ year old bank that has been in continual operation, Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena; we learned about panforte a dark, sweet, delicious bread, and where to get some of the best; and of course we learned about Siena’s history. Anna Lisa explained that Siena is divided into 17 current neighborhoods or contrade. The contrada system was set up in the middle ages and the Sienese are still very loyal to their contrada of birth. She explained that every year, all babies born into a given contrada are baptized into that contrada in an outdoor neighborhood fountain. No matter where the person moves, they are still members of the original neighborhood where they were born and baptized. She talked about the famous horse race, the Palio that has been going on for over 800 years ‘for the honor of Mary.’ The tour ended at the chapel and museum of the August 2015 Palio winner, the Contrada della Selva. After learning about the Forest Contrada’s history and more about the Palio, we dined in their community hall.
A quiet Siena street after a rain.
“We had a lot of wonderful food on the tour but by far the most special meal for me was the one at Contrada della Selva. A real meal cooked by ‘real’ people gave the entire evening a special feeling. One of the women had a birthday that night and after our tour companions sang Happy Birthday in Italian (with lots of help from Lisa), our hosts sang in English.” -K
Massimo Bracciali – Stained Glass Artist
We were stuffed full of great food including a local pasta, a tender meat stew called spezzatini, and a glass of vin santo, a light wine into which we dipped a hard cookie. We were also treated to the local chianti, which Contrada della Selva bottles and sells as a fundraiser. As we walked back to the hotel after dinner, the streets were wet from an earlier rain and the light bounced off the stone-paved roads giving everything a golden glow.
Thursday, October 29, 2015
After a short walk, we all piled into Massimo Bracciali’s shop to learn about working with stained glass the old way. Massimo and his brother Gianni run the operation and specialize in restoring old church windows throughout Europe and North America. We learned about how minerals are painted onto the glass and then baked in for permanence. We learned about how to repair, create patterns and many of the other things that go into making beautiful stained glass. After spending a little time shopping for goodies in the attached retail area, we headed for the Duomo.
Glasswork from the Bracciali brothers’ shop
We walked the few blocks over to the Siena Cathedral. The outside of the building is almost as beautiful as the inside with its colorful marble, arches and gold accents. As you step inside, the black and white layered marble is striking. The frescoes are stunning as is the beautiful mosaic floor. We felt small in the huge cathedral. What a massive undertaking this must have been back in the day. As had become her habit, Maryann lit a candle and prayed for a peaceful world before we left. We walked around some more, in awe at every turn. Our tour ended at about lunchtime, at which point we were free till early evening.
“Free time till about 5 pm meant another rest for me. While Maryann headed out on her own I spent the afternoon taking a nap. My cold was much improved, but I knew Rome was coming soon and we had already been advised it would be a whirlwind. I woke to find that Maryann had brought me a lovely book on uccelli (birds). I’m hoping it will help me identify some of the winged ones I’ve seen on our trip.” -K
Little Egret
“Earlier in our trip, I’d asked Lisa where we might find good cannoli, which I loved as a kid and young adult in Brooklyn. It was part of every one of my Italian-American family’s celebrations. Unfortunately, said Lisa, it was a Sicilian specialty. When we reached Siena, though, she pointed out a little shop, run by a Sicilian man, that sold cannoli. While Kerry was resting, I went out on my own, and I found the cannoli shop. I asked for one cannoli. The man looked confused. One? ‘Un cannolo,’ he corrected. Live and learn! We’d NEVER bought only one, so I didn’t know the singular form. I enjoyed every creamy, flaky bite!
I also returned to the Basilica of San Domenico, where relics of St. Catherine of Siena are preserved. We learned that the term ‘basilica’ denoted a church where there are relics, and this one had the head and finger of St. Catherine. I still ponder and puzzle over how reverence for a saint and her subsequent dismemberment fit together. Of course, this happened a long time ago….”-M
There is no shortage of marble inside the Duomo
We all met at the hotel for happy hour; then we were on our own for dinner. We had planned to go to Taverna de San Giuseppe upon the recommendation of a friend. We met up with Andy and Kate and headed out. Unfortunately, though we went just as they opened, they were full and the wait was too long to stick around, so we headed back to the Campo and had a meal there. A group of young people were in a very celebratory mood not far from where we were sitting. Occasionally they would break out in song. We wondered what it was about. Lisa and Alexis stopped by on their way to dinner and Lisa explained what was happening. It seems a local college was having graduation that day and the students were celebrating by singing a somewhat bawdy song to the graduates.